“Nibi Chronicles,” a monthly Great Lakes Now feature, is written by Staci Lola Drouillard. A Grand Portage Ojibwe direct descendant, she lives in Grand Marais on Minnesota’s North Shore of Lake ...
On a blustery September day in 2024, 68-year-old David Holtfreter decides to go kayaking in Grand Traverse Bay, Michigan. He looks out at the dark blue water and sees whitecaps on the waves. But David ...